LAMill Boutique Opens in Los Angeles

I just had a perfect cup of coffee.

It was lightly aromatic, deep chocolate brown in color, and had a satisfyingly smooth, heavy body that made my mouth hum. A Sumatra/peaberry, it was served in a pristine white porcelain cup and cost $2.50.

Heaven.

It's one of many choices from a carefully thought out menu of coffee, entrees, and desserts at LAMill in the city's Silverlake district, between downtown and Hollywood, and it's hopping with folks from teens to seniors.

For pure entertainment value and a superb coffee experience, gather a group to sit at the Lucite tables and on the faux crocodile teal comfy seats to choose the table side service in either a clear Chemex glass carafe or via the Clover vacuum siphon brew system. Or, sit in one of the aqua leather tufted seats at the barista bar for your individually prepared cup of coffee or espresso drink pulled from their one-of-a-kind pounded brass La Marzocco espresso machine imported from Italy. If you've lusted for a cappuccino where the milk and coffee meld into a lightly sweet caramel essence, this is your place. Organic milk from Straus Dairy in one of the delicious reasons for milk-infused espresso drinks; the other is fabulous hand-crafted, limited lot coffee.

Decorated in a campy mélange of Rococo brass chandelier and mirrors and American fifties curvy chairs, the two-room restaurant has maroon walls here, French toile wall covering there, and other colorful walls dotted with severe modern "paintings". It's wacky but it works, with the end result a clean albeit elegant hangout providing a great background to the real star of the show: great coffee brewed and served with style.

Food is a very creative if sometimes precious selection from vegetarian hen eggs with chopped crab to a Frisee au Lardon salad with Niman Ranch organic bacon, egg, and coffee-infused vinaigrette to Tasmanian sea trout with wasabi peas, wasabi crème fraiche, and watermelon radish plus a Tahitian squash potage with maple-coffee-urfa chili crème fraiche or a Yukon gold potato leek soup with Manila clams. Desserts make any afternoon foray end on a delicious note. Homemade dog biscuits with peanut butter are a nod to the dog-walking hillside charm of the Silverlake neighborhood. Take-out is brisk with substantial citrus-currant blueberry muffins, pure buttery croissants, and a substantial menu of coffee or espresso drinks.

The creative minds of chef Michael Cimarusti and pastry chef Adrian Vasquez of LA's justly acclaimed Providence restaurant are behind the food service, but it is youthful (29-years-old) owner Craig Min's fanatical sense of detail that has made his company's first venture into retail the hip hot place that it is. A well-respected wholesaler of coffee and teas, LAMill Boutique has benefited from both Min's exceptional bean sourcing and coffee "nose" John Gozbekian's legendary palate to create a coffee menu that's an Ivy League class in coffee 101. If the winey notes of a perfectly roasted Ethiopian coffee or the silkiness of a Costa Rica give you a reason to get up in the morning, this is your place.

Visit LAMill Boutique next time you're in LA. Don't be startled when you’re met and seated by the young host or served by a barista accomplished beyond imagination; it's all part of the charm of the place.

Open since January, hours are currently 7 am. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday; closed Mondays. Call to verify as hours are subject to some slight changes: (323) 663-4441. Located at 1636 Silverlake Blvd. across from Rubbish Interiors whose Scott Mangan and Nick Bianco designed the eclectic ambiance.

While a single serving of coffee is a very thrifty $2.50, tableside service can cost $12-15 (plenty enough for a group) and entrees are priced from $8 to $16 and breakfast pastries, from $2.50 to $4. Desserts slightly higher. Total menu not available for take-out but plenty of choices for eating and drinking. Coffees sold by the pound. A perfect aromatic memento for the folks back home.

Parking in the rear of the building. Some outdoor seating. MC/Visa/American Express/Discover. www.lamillcoffee.com.