all About Asparagus

by Diana Rosen

This week Cecily from Chicago puts Kitchen Sleuth on the case of the mysterious vegetable asparagus!

Dear Kitchen Sleuth:
I love asparagus and they're so plentiful now; how can I cook it other than steaming or stir fry? Can I make white or purple asparagus in the same way?

Dear Cecily:
Ah, asparagus let me count the ways I can prepare you! This elegant, beautiful, delicious vegetable makes any dish look festive and appealing. And, best of all, asparagus can be cooked in nearly any way you can imagine beyond steaming and stir fry. In general, white asparagus takes a little longer to cook and purple spears are best eaten raw.

Consider these techniques:
• Toss with olive oil and grill for 20-40 seconds on each side; 40 to 60 seconds for whites.
• Roast at 425°F. For two minutes on a baking sheet, turn, and roast for another 2 minutes; 4 minutes each turn for whites.
• Sauté lightly in a combo of olive oil and butter, pour two whisked eggs over them and you have a divine omelet; best for green spears.
• Broil with a drizzle of olive oil alone or with a coating of parmesan cheese that will crisp on the top; best for green spears.
• Bake in parchment paper or aluminum foil with just a dab of butter for 25-30 minutes in a hot oven of 350°F. or 30-35 minutes for whites.
• Microwave with a little water for 7 to 10 minutes for green, 10-12 minutes for whites.
• Steam, chop, blend and add cream or yogurt for a delicious soup; best for greens.
• Blanch in boiling water only 15-30 seconds for greens, 30-45 seconds for whites, transfer to paper towels and allow to dry; chill and cut up and toss in a salad ... and that's just what I can think of off the top of my head!

Special Equipment
Tall, narrow stainless steel pots are perfect for steaming asparagus because you can wrap them with kitchen twine, stand them up, and the water will steam upward, preserving all their valuable nutrients. Four to 6 minutes is usually all that is necessary. Any steaming apparatus will work just fine, and any pan, baking sheet or pot will work perfectly to cook asparagus. For grilling you can put the spears directly onto an oiled grill or thread a skewer through four or five spears for easy handling.

Three Types Available
Fresh green asparagus have a bright clear almost Kelly green color in the stalks and a purplish tint to the variegated tips. Their chlorophyll "green notes" are hexenals which give asparagus its fresh grassy taste. They are available in thin ¼ inch to nearly 1" in thickness. The thickness of asparagus has fans for thin pencil-like spears and thick spears. The thinner they are the quicker they cook and, alas, the easier it is to create a mushy chewy spear with a texture that can be unpalatable. Best to opt for medium to thick stalks.

Fresh white asparagus, which have no green color because they're grown completely underground, take a big longer to cook than the directions above, and the stalks should be peeled and the bottoms trimmed. They have a more delicate flavor, an almost buttery richness or a slight mushroom woodiness that can be brought out with a pinch of sugar in the water. They do not last long in the fresh state, so prepare them within 48 hours of purchase for best texture and taste. They tend to be slightly thicker than greens and hover around ¾" in thickness.

Fresh purple asparagus taste best raw and turn dark green when lightly steamed or blanched. In the raw state, the inner part is white and when steamed, they turn dark green. The purple is from antioxidants known as anthocyanins, which are also found in purple and red fruits and vegetables from red cabbage to purple plums. Their saponins inhibit cholesterol so they're terrific for any diet. They are generally "medium" thickness although you'll find some slight variety in size.

How to Buy
Check that the tips are tight and firm; loose tips indicate age and should be avoided. Avoid those with blemishes or bruises and look for a consistently vivid color in the green or purple ones and a smooth even color in the white ones.

How to Store
Asparagus will keep for about three days in the refrigerator when placed upright in a container with some water along the ends or in plastic bag with a wet paper towel, or store them upright in about an inch of water and cover them. Discard the rubber bands immediately as they tend to bruise the stalks. If you need to keep them refrigerated for several days, replace the water or wet paper towel daily to maintain freshness and sweeter flavor in the cooked spears.

How to Prepare
No matter which cooking method you're using, break off the woody ends or slice them off, rinse thoroughly to rid the spears of any lingering sand and dirt. Peeling is necessary only for the very thickest spears and it is better to peel a strip on opposite sides of each spear---with a vegetable peeler---than to strip all around the stalk because the outer layer actually protects the fibers inside and helps to insure tenderness. The peelings can be used for soups, as desired.

Why They're Great
The delicious sweet flavor makes asparagus a delightful vegetable however it is one of the best sources for Vitamins B6 and C, has plenty of fiber, folate, and the anti-carcinogen glutathione, and is loaded with antioxidants no matter which color.

Availability
Asparagus is grown in the west in Washington, in the Midwest in Michigan, and both Massachusetts and New Jersey produce asparagus on the east coast. The season is April through May in the west, and May through July in the rest of the country with early-bird growth in February and March depending on our rapidly changing weather, giving us six wonderful months to savor this delicious, healthful, easy-to-prepare fresh vegetable. Frozen green asparagus is available all year long as are canned white and green spears yet nothing tastes as wonderful as fresh-in-season asparagus. Enjoy!

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